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Shearling should be distinguished between “fake” and real. While both are warm, “real” shearling, with its lamb or “poodle” looking fur is both wind and water-resistant.

Cons of Real Shearling:

• Can stain and soil easily — so it must be inspected after each wearing.
• Ink stains can be difficult to remove
• Must be cleaned each season by a specialist
• Should be stored in a cool, breathable environment

Down is, ounce for ounce, the warmest and lightest material. It is also the most compressible—as well as one of the most durable.

Cons:

• It’s more expensive than poly-fill
• It loses insulating properties when wet
• It’s labor intensive to clean, and very slow to dry
• May contain allergens, because down is not entirely hypoallergenic.

Poly-fill and “puffer” coats are easy to care for, completely hypoallergenic, and offer a greater range of options for those on a budget.

Cons:

• Can be bulky to wear and less compact than down
• Heavier than down
• Breaks down over time
• May not drape as well as down

Wool and cashmere can be very warm, especially if lined. Both can be treated to be water-resistant—and provide a good barrier to cold and wind—but performance is specific to each coat. Cashmere is typically lighter and offers more mobility than “basic” wool.

Cons:

• Wool can be heavy and bulky to wear and store
• Can take on an odor when wet
• May be a problem for sensitive or allergic people

—The Clothing Doctor

© The Clothing Doctor. May not be reproduced in any form without written permission.

I did an interview with Martha Stewart Radio last week about Halloween stains...

Stain removal is all about the variables: the type of stain; the color of stain; the fabric—and the costume embellishments. And you have to think “outside the box” when it’s time to pre-treat, wash or dryclean these items!

Face Paint, Lipstick, Hair Dye removal = Pretreatment & patience!

• All of these stains will need pretreatment, detergent, water … and time: Time for the stain remover to do its intended job—which is to dissolve the stain. If it’s working after 5 minutes, then apply another few drops.
• Face paint, lipstick and hair dye, wash off the face with soap and water. But clothing—depending on the color and fabric—may need a soak in color-safe bleach, after pretreatment and washing. Some face paint and lipstick will need drycleaning, so consult your fabricare guru for first-hand advice.

Embellishments

Some sequins, pearls and glitter are attached with wax and glue, so you may have to “un-stitch” some ornamental parts before pretreatment because the wax and glues can dissolve in washing or drycleaning.

Glow-Sticks and Stain Removal

• Most glow sticks contain peroxide (a mild bleach), fluorescent dyes, and glass shards. The peroxide can “bleach” fabrics, but I would worry more about the fluorescent colors!
• If the stick breaks and leaks the inner fluid on to clothing, the fabric will need to be pretreated and then soaked, possibly all night. The colors are water-soluble, so they should come out. If they do improve, but are not removed, then try a soak in color-safe bleach. Use gloves to keep the glass shards from contacting your hands.
• Then rinse and wash, as usual!

-The Clothing Doctor

Everyone has at least one cherished piece; pillows, runners, needlepoint...

Maintenance: Taking note of its condition

Most heirloom fabrics, be it a cushion cover, a wedding gown, a tapestry or a Japanese kimono have been abused: There I said it!

Fact is these fabrics have absorbed decades and possibly a century or more of dust and impurities — without cleaning. Many of these textiles have also suffered neglect; taking on water stains and dye bleed from leaks and poor storage.

What can be done?

You can do your part by gently vacuuming the surface dust every few months. You can also make that you are storing these items properly:

• In a breathable bag (that does not contain cotton or wool)
• In an acid-free heirloom preservation box
• In an acid-free archival box
• And then make sure that the textile is surrounded by acid-free tissue

What can your drycleaner do for you?

In some cases, the textile may be in good enough shape to hand clean. If not, it can probably be spot cleaned — and, at minimum, steam cleaned. These processes will help “freshen” the fabric, while removing some dust and impurities.

Remember, older textiles may have some permanent discolorations that cannot be improved. However, any care will help maintain longevity.

This tip is © The Clothing Doctor and used with permission. May not be reproduced in any form without written permission.

So you’ve told your kids to use soap, and not to throw towels on the floor...

What else can you do?

Wash your towels in the hottest water; remove them soon after the cycle ends; and dry them as hot as possible!

Your washing machine gathers odors from the soap scum that sticks to the parts "inside" of the wash wheel and bacteria can form. (Using too much detergent actually reduces washing and contributes to the odor problem.)

• Using "regular" detergent in a front-load machine that requires High Efficiency (HE) detergent can also contribute to odors (and reduce efficiency).

To maintain your washer, clean and disinfect the inside every 30-60 days, depending on use.

• You can run a load of white clothing as the last load of the day and add a quarter-cup of chlorine bleach.
• You can run a "dummy" load or an empty load with just hot water and a whole cup of chlorine bleach.
• Or you can use one of the disinfecting products at the grocery store...but be sure to clean your washer at the first sign of odor.

Note:

To reduce odors, keep the lid open or the door slightly ajar to allow the washing machine to breathe when not in use! And remember to remove the lint from the filter of your dryer after every dry cycle.

This tip is © The Clothing Doctor and used with permission. May not be reproduced in any form without written permission.